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Pacific Swell – Mar de Fondo

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Pacific Swell - Mar de Fondo

The central government has warned of a “Mar de Fondo” or “Swell” along the Pacific Ocean. Various authorities maintain a permanent surveillance of the ocean as this ocean variance has the ability to cause strong waves on the Pacific coasts of Nicaragua.

The Mar de Fondo is a movement of waves that spreads outside the area where it has been generated. This phenomenon is caused by the effect of friction between the surface of the sea and the wind, which is intensified with the passage of atmospheric systems of bad weather (low pressures) that push the oceanic waters towards the coast causing strong waves. Formed by the wind, they continue moving away from the point of ​​origin and will become more regular, until they break in an area a long way from where they originated. At that point, there is no correlation between the wind in the area and the swell.

For surfers it’s normally a time to rejoice and is one of the reasons that the sport is so popular at this time of the year. Giant Foot Surf in Play Gigante says: “September and October are the peak of the rainy season.  In October, the wet season tropical storms start to hit Gigante.  Occasionally these storms will arrive in September but it is uncommon and the swell is still good, especially during the first two weeks of the month.”

MAGICSEAWEED Surf Report Playa Maderas, San Juan del Sur

Puerto Corinto, in the Department of Chinandega, the major import and export port on the Pacific coast side, is always a location of special concern as the delicate coastline and port areas are vulnerable to high tides.

There have been reports of some houses damaged near the eroded sand dam in Puerto Corinto. High waves and storms producing heavy rain and strong winds are a dangerous combination, warns the Red Cross in that area.

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